The road to Cooktown

My road to Cooktown started on 6th July 2009 when we packed up our Sydney life and took off into the relative unknown. Five days later we would have traversed almost the length of the continent as far as Cairns in our Honda and 7x4 trailer which held our chosen possessions for a year in the tropics.

The interesting thing about heading for Cooktown was the little there is known about the place by the average person, including myself. When I first started to tell friends and acquaintances about us moving to Cooktown, invariably there would be the comment "Wow, New Zealand - that will be cold!" It couldnt be further from the truth although its not as hot as I thought it mught be.

Anyway it turns out that ofcourse Cooktown is famous for Cook - who spent 48 days here while he had the HMB Endeavour repaired after it had run aground on the Great Barrier Reef. It is the sight of the first real encounter and association with the Australian Aboriginal and the place where Sir Joseph Banks collected over 200 specimens of Australian flora that became the famous Banks Floreligium. Anyway enough of the history lesson - there will be more to come of that in other blogs because it is quite simply fascinating stuff.

So back to the trip - during the journey we ran out of petrol in a small dark town and were taken in by the kindness of strangers at 9pm at night. The only room left in the car for the dog was on the passenger's lap and that is where he rode for the 3000 miles. We also managed to squeeze in the espresso machine which has been a daily godsend! Not that these is no coffee here - its perfectly decent and grown locally.

So the most important part of the journey was the final 4 hours between Cairns and Cooktown. In Cairns we enjoyed good food and company and shopped for our final supplies. Although Sean had been to Cooktown it was sight unseen for me and the kids and i really had no idea what to expect.

We set off and the journey was breathtaking. The hills and valleys are still prehistoric in their demeanour - beautiful, remote and untouched by time. There is little between Mareeba and Cooktown - two roadhouses - Palmer River and Mt Carbine and two towns, Mt Molloy and Lakeland.

There is so much history however as Palmer River is the sight of the Gold Rush of the 1870's when Cooktown, as the closest sea port, swelled to a polulation of more than 30,000 people. Other than a few old pictures and some chunks of gold at the Roadhouse there is little to show for the huge numbers that flocked to this place to make their fortune.

The road to Cooktown from Cairns has only been bitumen for 3 years. Amazing to think of the journey which now takes 4 hours and used to take 8. In the wet season the road would subside and disappear under water for much of it and people would always travel prepared for the possibility of camping somewhere overnight.

Along the road there are lots of animals - cattle and wild horses are everywhere and ofcourse the wallabies come out at dusk. Occasionally you will see some other creature like an echidna, Coucal pheasant and even some ducks......yes on the trip back from Cairns yesterday there were 4 white ducks (think Jemima) walking along the middle of the road. Dont ask me why but after 8 months here nothing suprises me. Which is why I wanted to share with you the journey which never ceases to delight in its wild beauty.

I was amused at Lakeland when we drove through the other day, there was a bit of a buzz - there is a new truck washdown bay (which for those not up to speed with Aussie bush life) is designed to wash off nasty seeds and pests that might stick to a truck and be carried intra or interstate. Fireweed is a major problem apparently.

I should have taken a photos but picture a gravel road siding on the outskirts of town (town is a pub, a school, a cafe and petrol pump and maybe 4 houses) with nothing around and a concrete platform with small tanks either side. Well they had an official opening with Local MP's, the Mayor and various local business members. Hilarious! I thought it was anyway...the grand opening of a truck wash down bay. God I love the outback - any excuse will do.

Anyway after 4 days in Cairns you will be pleased to know that I was thrilled to be back in Cooktown with all its natural beauty and sleepy seaside feel. The boys have gone off fishing and I am catching up on work and cleaning.......bye for now.